Fromage first: London’s greatest cheeseboards



here are many (and increasing) ways of dividing the world, but my favourite is between the sweet-toothed and the more savoury-minded; between those who believe cheeseboard is a viable dessert option, and those who perish the thought (just as James Acaster does).

I’m in the former camp. For interest, depth and variety of taste and texture, cheese is hard to beat — particularly when paired with a Port or a dessert wine. To roam round a well-chosen cheeseboard is a mini adventure: one could be in Provence with one mouthful, savouring the salinity of a small, creamy goats’ cheese, and with the next have travelled to Scotland with a beefy Isle of Mull cheddar. Cheese has long been du jour in London, and as such appears on many menus — but not all boards are born equal. Sourcing is key, as are the accompaniments, be they crackers, chutney, oat cakes or quince jam, the queen of condiments. These are some of my favourites, serving artisanal cheeses from across Europe with wines, sides and biscuits that do their calibre justice. Make sure to save space.


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